All Things Tagliatelle

Pasta

I learned to make fresh pasta in Florence with a glass of Chianti Classico and a view of the Tuscan hillside. I got yelled by an old Italian lady for doing it wrong (I didn’t understand a word of it, but I got the gist…). We cut the pasta by hand and tried it with both bolognese and pesto.

Then I came home and screwed it up in all sorts of new an interesting ways. My pasata fell apart, was overcooked, stuck together, until it didn’t.

I can share this because no matter where you go, or what class you take, the recipe is the same.

Homemade Egg Pastas

Ingredients

Per serving…

Steps

Do not follow these instructions. Find a video, watch how it’s done. Try it. Fuck it up. Try it again. Open a bottle of Montepulciano. Eat pasta. Be happy.

Pasta hanging on a drying rack
Pasta drying. Minimum 15m, but apparently the Italians leave it out all day and it's fine.

Gear

You need this exact pasta machine. There’s cheaper, but this is what they use in Italy and the second I upgraded I got much better results.

Some kind of drying rack is also useful. Do not skip drying, or your pasta will not hold together.

And entirely optional, but I like this silicon mat for working with dough. The dough doesn’t stick to it and you can just throw it in the sink rather than carefully washing down your counter.

Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking says I needed a wide saute pan. And… I have an addiction so I don’t need that much convincing. I got this OXO. Here’s the thing… you use less water, it cooks faster, and when working with dry noddles they fit across without breaking. I should have gotten one of these years ago.


Our pasta is dry, our dog is begging, now what?

We’re going to talk about three styles.

  1. The House Tomato Sauce
  2. Pesto
  3. Garlic and Chili Oil

House Tomato Sauce

This is an old family recipe, and it’s the same one we use to make lasagna.

Is it a Ragu? ChatGPT says yes, the Italians say no and wave their hands around a lot shouting why this is Americanized nonsense. Who’s to say who’s correct? (Hint: it’s never the robot.)

You can substitute the beef for a big handful of tomatoes if you want a vegetarian friendly version or didn’t defrost any meat out last night and just want to get the simmer started.

Ingredients

I’m including the original ratios. I use far more than this and just sort of eyeball it. Tinker to taste.

Steps

  1. Brown meat with a little olive oil in a big pot or dutch oven
  2. Add tomatoes in all forms (diced, paste, juice, chopped fresh)
  3. Simmer 2 hours

Serve over pastas with fresh parmesan, or feta. Sometimes garnish with an olive or basil.

Pesto pasta
Left: this is art. Right: floppy ears, nose twitching.

Pesto

The recipe comes from a cooking class so I can’t share it, but there’s a billion different pesto recipes out there and they all amount to something like this:

Take a ton of basil, garlic, parmesan, some pine nuts, throw it in a food processor and add olive oil as it blends until you get a sauce. Set aside.

Then when your pasta is done, return it to the pan and give it a pesto bath.

You can use a blend of basil and parsley since sometimes its hard to find enough basil. Seriously, so much basil.

The correct way to do this is with mortal and pestle. I’ve tried both. The mortal version is a lot more work and tended to pack the sauce into a condensed paste that tends to clump rather than spread event across the pasta. By comparison, the food processor made a thin green sauce that spread over everything perfectly.

Garlic and Oil Pasta
Topped with copious cheese, herbs, tomatoes and scallions.

Garlic and Chili Oil

Aka Aglio e Olio, a classic Roman recipe.

I had this on a particularly hot (but breezy, always breezy) day in Lake Cuomo. It’s an excellent summer pasta and I had to figure out to make it when we got home.

Ingredients

Steps

  1. Start boiling pasta
  2. Mince garlic
  3. Simmer garlic, red pepper flakes, and salt in oil in a small dutch oven. Be careful not to burn it. Maybe add a little black pepper.
  4. Prep toppings
    1. Grate parmesan
    2. Chop scallions
    3. Halve tomatoes
  5. When then pasta is ready, take a small ladle of pasta water and add it to the oil mixture. The move pasta into the chili/garlic-oil and cook with tomatoes for a minute to so.
  6. Serve in bowls topped with scallions, cheese, parsley, in that order.

Questions

Toss the sauce or no?

Meat sauce no. Pesto yes. Gralic and oil yes.

Add pasta water to the sauce?

Pesto yes. Gralic and oil… maybe? Meat sauce no.

Can I use regular box pasta with all these?

Yes, particularly on a weeknight, but you won’t want to.

Can I freeze it?

Yes!

The House Tomato Sauce freezes well. Reheat in a pan with some olive oil.

The fresh pasta noodles can be put in a freezer bag. When you take it out you can throw it straight into a pot of boiling water. I’ve done this a few times where I made an extra batch of dough for next week.

Pesto starts to turn brown the second the basil is pulverized, you can’t make it in advance. I’m not sure about trying to freeze it but I’m skeptical.

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